"It is the wish to be an animal again, to have the eyes that I have lost. No presuppositions. Just sticks and stones. I want something that is gone, something unacceptable, irrational. Where it is known when to sleep, where to seek food, which direction to turn. Where it is understood, without quarrel or reason. I want to lose my fingers and plans and I want to fly." -Craig Childs, The Animal Dialogues


Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Taking it Slow: The Zigzag Mountain Trail and Paradise Park


I raced the Mt. Hood 50 on Saturday July 28th and then did the Rim to Rim Against Nestle protest run in the Gorge on the Wednesday after that.  The tough, epic 50 mile course of the Nestle run (of my creation!) felt like a 100 miler due to my fatigue but was good training for my last two ultras of the year, the Waldo 100k on Aug. 18 and The Bear 100 on Sept. 28-29.

I needed to rest my body and give it time to recover; with Waldo only 2 weeks away I wanted to make sure I was good and ready.  I got restless though with a rare free weekend and the perfect Oregon summer weather and had to take advantage and get into the mountains.

I decided to go hiking and spend a night alone out in the woods somewhere.  Being in the mountains in any way--hiking, running, climbing, strolling, observing, sleeping out--increases one's fluency with them.  Mountain travel is a true art and familiarizing with all its facets and getting to know the land and the movements intimately is essential.  I vowed to just take it nice and easy, go old school, take lots of pictures, have no real agenda, play it by ear, sleep wherever.

My Monday was free until the afternoon so I chilled Saturday and left Sunday morning and drove east toward Mt. Hood.  I'd gone back and forth literally dozens of times about where to go and what to do.  It was ridiculous.  First the 3 Sisters area, then Olympic National Park, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, the Mt. St. Helen's area, and on and on.  My going solo definitely played a part in my decision making and I always considered driving times.  With so much so close, it's hard to justify driving three or four hours when you could drive one.  I ended up staying close and was, yet again, blown away beyond comprehension.

I parked at the Zigzag Mountain Trailhead just off the East Lolo Pass Rd. off Highway 26, 45 miles from Portland.  I packed up and set off climbing out of the bottom of the valley; a nice early start at just after 10 am.  My small pack weighed maybe 25 lbs. at most with one long sleeve shirt, a ~2 lb. 32 deg. sleeping bag, a headlamp, hat, map, cell phone, ID, cash, and food and water.  For the food I had some gels and the like but also real stuff: a couple prepackaged burritos, a Dave's Sin Dawg, and a stick of Olympic Provisions Salami (OMG! This stuff is SO next level.)  It was nice to feel still relatively light but have plenty to spend the night out comfortably.

The trail followed mellow switchbacks for three thousand feet, ascending onto the massive ridge system that runs all the way into Mt. Hood itself.  I'd eagerly scoped the feature on maps and was thrilled to be finally exploring the area.  Once up the main climb the trail is surprisingly moderate, rolling along the ridge line, in and out of the trees.  When it did pop out of the trees the views were incredible, initially to the south with Mt. Jefferson and Devil's Peak and the countless others in between and all around, and then in every direction, to Helens, Rainier and Adams to the north.  Wildflowers abounded.  No clouds, hot, 90 degrees, but perfect.  Mt. Hood looked really far away.  I had some epic schemes flitting through my head and visions of grandeur about going all night and doing a 60 mile loop around the whole mountain but those quickly dissolved as I was stopping constantly and taking my time to look at things and take pictures.  And I was hiking.  Things go much slower when you're not running.  I decided to follow the Zigzag trail all the way to the Pacific Crest Trail/Timberline Trail and then see what I felt like doing.  I already had an inkling that I might be tempted to head to Timberline Lodge for beers (and because I love that place, such a work of art.)

I was constantly blown away by the Zigzag Mountain Trail and the area right there to the west of Mt. Hood, with Cast and Burnt Lakes and the exposed, wildflower strewn high points and outcrops all along the ridge.   I finally saw a few people near the Burnt Lake trail junction (where they took a picture of me) but before that I had been completely alone, fighting through the spiderwebs across the trail all on my lonesome.  For real though it was crazy, spider webs and the occasionally quite large spiders residing on them were the theme of the trip.  I was seriously very thankful to have my trekking poles with me if only for the sole purpose of clearing my way on the trail.

After reaching the PCT/Timberline Trail I was, as suspected, hankering for a beer and not looking for the epic miles I'd briefly pondered.  After all I was supposed to be resting.  I would go to Timberline Lodge I decided, enjoy a beverage, some company, maybe catch some coverage of the Olympics, and then sleep somewhere around there.  In the morning I'd cut down the mountain on a shorter route to Highway 26 then hitchhike the short distance to the town of Zigzag and my car nearby.  That was the plan.

...And I did exactly that.  The last three miles of my day, on the PCT/Timberline Trail from the Zigzag Mountain Trail to the Lodge, were dramatic and beautiful, contouring in and out and the great and massive drainage below Mississippi Head and the headwaters of the Zigzag River.  I was buzzing off the brilliant sights and perfect early evening temperatures.  Blissful.

At the Ramshead Bar I drank two IPAs, ate a bread bowl of clam chowder, talked to some PCT through-hikers, watched Olympic beach volleyball and gymnastics, then headed back out of doors again, into the lovely night.  The talkative older character of an employee said there was a lightning show going on out to the south east and so I went to watch it.  I hiked up the rocky, scree slopes above the lodge and found a little perch near some trees, technically right on the ski slope, but out of sight of any of the lights of the lodge.  I pulled out my sleeping bag and crawled in and watched the storm flashing out there in the cool night.  I awoke to rain, as the storm apparently had moved north a bit, and had to move under the shelter of the tree in the middle of the night.  Pleasurable temps though.











I awoke to the ski lifts running nearby, taking folks up the mountain to carve up the snow parks and few runs.  There was a surprising number of people headed up at 7 in the morning, all dressed like it was winter.  I just sat and enjoyed the view, looking south at Mt. Jefferson in the early light.  I backtracked to the lodge to have some coffee and look at my map in the great room and decide which route to take down.  I walked in the back door and the coffee was all laid out right there on a huge table in front of the window with big white porcelain mugs lined up invitingly, ready to go.  What more could I ask for?  Well, there was no food prepared for me but I didn't even think the coffee would be free so I was already pleasantly surprised.  I sat and consulted the map and decided to retrace my steps on the PCT/Timberline Trail through some of the most dramatic parts of the day before, then take the Paradise Park Trail down the mountain.

It was a stunning morning.  Couldn't have been more agreeable to the senses.  When I reached my cut off to start descending I couldn't help myself and chose to add on the Paradise Park Loop (an additional 4 miles) before heading for home.  I had enough time and I was already up there and I'd never been on the loop before.  I mean what if I died the next day?  I had to take advantage while I had the chance...

I actually thought I had died and gone to my alpine mountain heaven...I can't say much more than that.  It is hard for me to comprehend that the trailhead to this literal paradise is less than 1 hour from Portland.  That fact makes me catch my breath.  The privilege of having that access is immeasurable.





I did the loop then headed down, running a little here and there, but still battling spiders and webs.  I finally saw hikers coming up and was thankful that they had just cleared my way, as I had theirs.  I reached the road and walked the pavement of Rd. 2639 for a mile or so to the busy Highway 26.  Thumb out, hot in the full sun at 12:30 on the side of the road.  Some cars passed and I started to have the normal doubts, what if I never get back?  But 2 minutes later a guy stopped and I hopped in.  Edwardo--super cool dude, soccer coach from Portland, been to the summit of Hood--told me about his weekend in Bend and we chatted and in no time he dropped me at the Lolo Pass Road and we said goodbye.  I walked the last mile to my car and then I was back, thankful for no broken windows.  I switched into flip flops, started driving and an hour later I was home, ready for work in the afternoon.

Another good adventure, dirt bag style.

Enjoy the pictures (there's lots...)




















Thanks for reading and looking! Here's a wonderful video and song for your viewing and listening pleasure...



Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Flashbacks #2- Another Trip Home (Yosemite '10)

I've worked on this piece for awhile now, tinkering and reworking, and am excited to finally share it.  When the story was nearly completed I came across a video someone had posted entitled "Yosemite HD."  It's a spectacular collection of images from the great national park and the time lapse techniques and new age technology make it truly stunning and unique to watch.  I realized then that it was a perfect compliment to my story (or vice versa) about a solo adventure right through the heart of that land.  Hopefully the combination of words and images will provide a stimulating multi-media experience of the great Range of Light and accurately portray the wonder, excitement and amazement I've felt when visiting.  Enjoy!








Another Trip Home
A Solo, Trans-Sierra Journey

I felt bad for lying to my boss.  The coming weekend was prime time for a mission though: my girlfriend was away and the weather was perfect.  All I needed was another excuse.

I liked being a carpenter for many reasons; a major one was that it was a profession more accommodating of a vagabond's schedule than most.  On many occasions I had taken off on short notice, heading to Yosemite National Park and the Sierra Nevada mountains for another adventure.  Even with all my boss' forgiveness and understanding I sometimes felt guilty enough to lie.  

"I have a doctors appointment at 1 back in the east bay, so I was hoping to leave at lunchtime," I explained to him.

The plan was to leave work promptly at noon and drive to Yosemite Valley to catch the YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transit System) bus at 5:15 pm, headed for the town of Mammoth Lakes on the east side of the Sierras.  Then, over the next two days, I would run and hike the 70 miles back to my car and drive straightaway back to Berkeley on Sunday night for work the next morning.

I had chosen my route with great excitement.  Sitting on the couch on the summer evenings after work, with door open and Berkeley Hills beyond, I scoured the maps laid out before me, memorizing the features and trails.  I wanted to cross the Sierra Nevada range from east to west by a grand and aesthetic route.  I craved a real challenge, a true journey; over passes, around peaks, into deep valleys and out again.

I am always thrilled to see new sights and visit new landscapes but I relish the trips back to the same places, each time forging a more intimate connection.  I have spent a lot of time in Yosemite over the years, increasingly exploring the magical spaces in between and just beyond the more popular destinations; climbing walls and mountains, hiking on and off trails, attempting to complete the web.

I had the route planned and couldn't stop thinking about it.  I would begin at Agnew Meadows and follow the Mammoth Trail over the low pass just south of the Minarets and the Ritter Range, then descend into the valley of the North Fork of the San Joaquin River deep in the Ansel Adams Wilderness.  I would cross the North Fork at Hemlock Crossing and zigzag northwest to Isberg Pass, a remote southwesterly entrance to Yosemite National Park.  From Isberg Pass I would go down and up again to Red Peak Pass, then begin the final descent, past the Ottoway Lakes to Illilouette Creek and down to Yosemite Valley.  On the last miles I'd hit the crowds by Nevada and Vernal Falls and on the Mist Trail, and soon arrive at Happy Isles and civilization.  I figured (and hoped) it would take two days: begin Friday night/Saturday morning and finish Sunday, in time for the 5:15 pm bus back to my car.

  I arrived in Presidio Heights, one of San Francisco's wealthiest neighborhoods, on Friday morning and got to work.  I was perched high off the side of the fourth story on a tiny platform I'd constructed, blasting away with the nail gun for four hours, reframing and attaching plywood as the base layer for new siding.  The cold summer sea fog rolled past and through the breaks in it I could see the colorful houses of Presidio Heights, Laurel Heights and the inner Richmond.  I could see the UCSF campus by the gigantic mushroom cloud of a Eucalyptus grove and the Twin Peaks above it.  There were the massive bulbous canopies of Buena Vista and Golden Gate Park and the de Young Museum amidst the tree tops and clouds like a Mayan temple from outer space.  A wonderful city, but nevertheless I checked the time incessantly, waiting for my escape from it.  Finally the moment arrived and I began frantically putting my tools away.

I skipped my ritual pre-adventure In & Out burger feast in Manteca, but only because I didn't have time to stop.  There was traffic in the city and on 580 getting out of the Bay and I was behind schedule already and realized my plan needed amending.  It was too much of a gamble to try for the 5:15 bus from the Valley, there was only one eastbound bus a day so if I missed it my plan would be foiled.

The bus was scheduled to be at Tuolumne Meadows at 6:50, in the Yosemite high country on highway 120.  Catching it there seemed to be my only choice so I rerouted to Tuolumne, parked, grabbed my pack and walked to the bus stop.  There was only one down side: I had wanted to park in the Valley so I would be finishing at my car and my things, ready to start the drive home.  Unfortunately with the change of plans, I would need to take the bus to get to my car, which meant making it back in time to catch it.  I would deal with that later, the important thing was that I was on my way to Mammoth Lakes.

The sun set and the purples, pinks and blues aged into richer tones over the peak tops.  The bus descended the serpentine road thousands of feet from Tioga Pass to Lee Vining, down the immense valley that dwarfs vehicles like ants.  We reached June Lake as it grew fully dark and shortly after entered Mammoth Lakes and drove through the town to the final stop by the ski resort.   I stepped off into the cold night air of a town at elevation.

I had only my small day pack.  I wanted to move fast so I'd tried to be as light as possible, although I've suffered a great deal in the outdoors so I've become a little more realistic about what I bring along.  I had a few layers, a rain jacket, a 32 degree ~1.5 lb sleeping bag, a headlamp, hat, and heaviest of all, my food.

I'd gotten tired of eating bars and gels all the time and wanted more real food on my adventures.  I'd started making homemade energy wraps that my friend and I jokingly referred to as "love logs."  They began with a whole wheat tortilla and a smear of peanut butter, almond butter, and/or any other nut butters available.  I then added an array of ingredients: hemp, sesame, flax, sunflower, and pumpkin seeds, almonds, cashews, dates, cranberries, raisins, bananas, banana chips, agave syrup, coconut butter, chocolate chips, olive oil and sea salt.  I would wrap it up burrito style, pack it tight in a plastic bag to help form it up, and that was it.  The results were great.

I had 5 of those wraps and 5 other savory wraps with turkey, cheese, onions, tomatoes, spinach, mayo, and Sri Racha.  Each wrap weighted probably a pound so the food bag was ridiculously heavy.  I could have fed a small child for a month.  Before I even started on the trail I forced myself to eat one of each variety to cut down on weight.

It was about nine when we arrived in Mammoth Lakes.  I could see the outline of the mountains looming in the night sky and I was intimidated to start and hungry as always.  The bus stop was across from a Swiss mountain-lodge style restaurant, so of course I went in.  I ate a burger at the bar and people watched and idled for awhile, enjoying the warmth and light and human contact before setting off into the dark.

I walked outside and called a cab, which was part of the plan.  The cab came and we drove west away from the lights of town and into the forest toward Agnew Meadows.  The driver eyed my small pack skeptically when I explained I was going to cross the Sierras over to Yosemite Valley.  He just smiled and wished me luck and dropped me at the pullout with a sign for the Pacific Crest Trail.  I paid him and said goodbye.  He was off and I was alone in the mountains.

I promptly called my girlfriend.  She was with her family visiting her sister in New York City.  I was amused at the situation: it was 10:30 on a Friday night and I was in the wilderness with not another human soul around for miles while she was on the other side of the country seeing thousands of people passing before her eyes every second in one of the biggest, most vibrant cities on earth.  It was just me and the darkness, the animals, the mountains.  I told her I loved her and that I'd call her as soon as I could, then said goodnight and turned off my phone.  The little screen faded to black and I was cut-off.  At last.

I put my pack on and started running south on the Pacific Crest Trail toward Red's Meadow.  I was tired so I knew I didn't want to go for long that night.  I often imagine myself going non-stop on a minimum of rest but after getting up at six, working a half day of construction, driving for five hours and busing for two, I was ready for sleep.  The land was gentle aways before the trail began to switchback and descend into a canyon.  I couldn't see much except what my headlamp illuminated, but I felt the wind blowing down the canyon from the north and saw the trees and grasses waving and could hear the sounds.  After a few miles the trail leveled out and I was in the canyon proper with the river close by.  Sleep was calling me so I stopped and walked over to a suitable plot beside a large downed tree, just fifty feet off the path but out of its view.  No sleeping pad or tent or bivouac sack necessary; the ground was soft under clear skies and it wasn't too cold for the elevation was low.  I chose my spot so I had an open view of the bottomless black above, littered with points of light that shone long ago, the whole sky a Milky Way.  

I awoke around 7 and packed my things, happy no animals had helped themselves to my food that I'd half-heartedly hung on a tree limb nearby.  I began running through the chilly forest, waking up to my surroundings and warming up to the morning workout.  The path crossed the river back and forth a few times on foot bridges and I saw people fishing, setting off on hikes, enjoying the crisp air.  The Pacific Crest Trail crossed the Muir Trail just west of the busy hiker hub at Red's Meadow and there I left them both and took the trail straight west.  I started hiking as the angle increased, pushed on by the views of the valley of the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River to the south.  The ski mountain at Mammoth Lakes rose high in the brilliant blue sky behind me as I sweated onward, taking my time but mindful to keep a decent pace.  

I'm often (re)surprised at the ruggedness of mountain trails, gladly taken aback at the narrow, rocky, ankle-break footing, and the overgrown, hard to follow paths.  I always day-dream of running non-stop through the high peaks like an animal without fatigue, without thought, unified with everything around me, deriving unending energy from Nature like a plant absorbing the sun.  Then I arrive from sea level, tired and work weary, and try to run with a pack at elevation on the grinding ascents and treacherous descents and I quickly realize that I'm not as unstoppable as I'd wished.

I ate brunch at the first pass, atop a boulder amidst the thinning trees, looking west into the most remote of the Ansel Adams Wilderness where I was headed.  The ridge line to the north from the pass became increasingly jagged and foreboding with each peak.  When it finally reached the Minarets and Mt Banner and Ritter, the spiny ridge was so sharp and fierce in its topography that it evoked great kingdoms where unfathomable forces reigned.  Over the next thirteen miles I would be heading north along the North Fork of the San Joaquin, edging around the base of that dark kingdom.

My plastic bag of savory wraps was a nightmare.  Apparently due to the juice of the tomatoes I had used, combined with mayonnaise and Sri Racha and some condensation, the bag had literally become soup.  Miraculously though, the tortillas were remaining intact.  Reaching into that bag of sodden food was no pleasant task, but I had no choice.  I ate that dripping tortilla wrap and, by the end, all the others too.

Over the next ten miles the Ansel Adams Wilderness presented me with the most stunning wildflower display I've ever seen.  The Cascade and Olympic Mountains in Washington, the Wahsatch in Utah, the Rockies in Colorado, and the Coast Ranges in northern California and Oregon had all blown me away before with their dazzling arrays but this was the grandest of all.  The series of meadows--Summit, Stairway, Cargyle, Corral, Headquarters, Earthquake, and Naked Lady (my favorite)--came one after another, a chain of sublime spaces, of color and light and open air.   I would see them from a distance, the marvelous colors slowly emerging out of the glowing bright between the trees.  Through the shadowed forest I would move until at last the sun would illuminate the air around me and the world would ignite with the yellows, purples, oranges, and reds of the wildflowers and the pulsing blue of the sky overhead.  I would stop and stare, hypnotized by the beauty.

I looked over to my left into the staggering perfection of Cargyle Meadow and froze suddenly.  What the...A sheep!?!?  The nearly white hair tricked my brain for an instant.  I was actually looking at a blonde black bear.  It meandered through the meadow not thirty feet away and made no signs of noticing me.  It was beautiful, young and small(ish) and as unified with its surroundings and present in the moment as I wish I could be.  Seeing an animal in the wild is an instant resetting of my mind.  It's an immediate tabula rasa, a stark and certain wake up call like cold water to the face.  It is witnessing for a moment the pulsing essence of Nature, catching a bittersweet glimpse of a world we've turned our backs to.  It is the ecstatic sensation of experiencing the impossible, like walking a bridge we burned long ago.

I moved slowly back up the trail paralleling the graceful beast, transfixed by it as I sensed my footing, careful for noise.  For a few minutes I observed as it nosed along, entranced by its instinctual movement.  Eventually my tracking skills failed me and I kicked a rock and the bear moved away to the far end of the meadow and disappeared into the forest beyond, just like that.  I stared after it, not wanting to accept that it was gone.  I continued on finally, clinging to the scene and its image in my mind like when you wake up from a good dream and want to go back to sleep.  Once you've had experiences with animals in the wild you can close your eyes and remember the moment and feel a deep comfort from it.

As much as I relish time alone in the mountains I would never claim not to get nervous, self-doubting or even down right scared at times.  I can see or hear strange things, imagine figures in the woods, make up creepy scenarios and get scared of the dark.  I worry about wrong turns, fear being lost, injured, battered by storm, dashed upon rocks, drowned in the rivers, stranded by broken ankle, starved to death.  These fears demand my attention and awareness, necessitate my focus on the task and my presence in the moment and so they are good.

My solitude was further pronounced the more remote my position grew, the less and less trodden the trails.  I never considered the option of turning back though, it wasn't in the plans.  I would have face any fears, doubts, or challenges that arose.  My commitment was complete.

The meadows ceased and the trail descended rocky and narrow until it reached the banks of the North Fork of the San Joaquin.  There it was paradise of waterfalls and pools, lush and luxurious, with the sharp spires of the Minarets overhead.  The trail crossed Dike Creek where it flows out of a dramatic, sheer-walled chute of rock and plunges into a perfect swimming hole beside the path.  I impulsively stripped naked at the sight of it but lingered too long in the shallows and wimped out.   The pain in my feet was unbearable and an ice cream headache all-consumed me, so I swallowed my pride and put my clothes back on.  It was warm and sunny but just not hot enough.  

At Hemlock Crossing there was a stout and tank-like metal bridge over the North Fork.  Under the bridge the water flowed through a beautiful passage carved in white granite to another waterfall over sculpted rock, giving me good reason to relax again beside the river and enjoy the sound.

I hiked up below Sadler Peak, climbing out of the valley of the North Fork to the southwest on the Stevenson Trail.  I enjoyed the endless views of the whole valley; the headwaters to the north and the confluence with the larger Middle Fork to the south, the dark kingdom across and the meadow lands below that I'd traversed earlier that day.  The Minarets, Mt Banner, Mt Ritter, and Mt Davis showed endless opportunities standing tall and enticing in the early afternoon sun.  It was a staggering spectacle, the kind that makes you feel small, humble, and happy.

I crossed Chetwood Creek and entered an area of lakes and meadows between white granite temples rising from the trees.  Those meadows had good names too: Bugg, Detachment, Knoblock.  I looked upon the escarpment of Timber Knob to the west as the sky grew dense with dark clouds.  The day was fading and I started feeling the usual anxieties: ornery animal friends, injury, loneliness, the unknown.  Then, as if on cue, the sky broke over me and thunder cracked and lightning flashed for a splitting instant.  The clouds opened and cold rain poured down as I stood shin deep in the middle of a flooded meadow.  There was nothing to do but laugh and shake my head and grin at my vulnerability.  I walked on, dripping wet and still eager like a dog.

I passed the decaying Chetwood Cabin and began the climb to Isberg Pass, following the East Fork of Granite Creek in the thickening twilight.  The rain stopped and the clouds broke a little and the sunset shone purple on the white granite peaks.  Thoughts of sleep drifted into my mind like nighttime fog as I reached Sadler Lake.  I considered stopping but wanted to get as far as possible that day so I continued.  I could hear people in the night and see the lights of tents on the west side of Sadler.  I could see lights and hear more people too once I got up to Lower Isberg Lake but it wasn't bothersome to the peacefulness of the night.  It was actually a nice reminder of humans experiencing the pleasures of wilderness.  My breath showed strong in the illuminated air before me and I began to feel that familiar loneliness.  Oh, how nice it would be at one of those camps!  Warm food, companionship, stories, laughter, maybe some whiskey.  No, that would have to wait for another trip.  I didn't have my sweet girlfriend to snuggle with, had no stove, no warm and comforting food, no tent, no sleeping pad, few clothes.  I relish being alone in the wilderness but I must admit that the distant presence of others was comforting that night.

I reached Lower Isberg Lake and stepped off the trail to look for a good place to sleep.  I was careful to pick a durable spot to minimize my impact and soon found an appropriate depression in the tundra near the lake.  I felt fortunate to be perched atop an elegant valley and surrounded by a regal ridge of scoured granite made by Post Peak, Isberg Peak, Sadler Peak and Long Mountian.  The sky was lighter in the west through the notch of the pass and made stark the ridge line as stars emerged upon the inky canvas, pinpricks poking through from the other side.

I put on all my layers and crawled into my sleeping bag that was quickly feeling inadequate at 10,000 ft.  I queasily ate a wet savory wrap that somehow hadn't fallen apart yet, drank some water, and laid my head on a pillow of shoes and pack.  It was 10:30 pm and I'd gone roughly 35 miles, about halfway.  Over the 15 hour day of sun and blue sky and afternoon thunderstorm, I'd taken plenty of time to stop and marvel at the sights.  My mind had drifted with the wind over the far peaks and blew with the clouds around their summits.  My imagination had flowed around the rocks in crystalline waters, buzzed among the flowers in the meadows and followed with the blonde bear away into the forest.  It was a fine day.

I was up at 6, happy to get moving and warm my cold body.  The rising sun lit the high country above the trees while the valleys slumbered on in lingering night.  Packing is fast when you have little and in a moment I was heading to the pass.  I went by a few tents with inhabitants still fast asleep, ensconced in a wonderful warmth I hadn't had.  The sun soon hit directly though and the chill left me as I moved over the rocks, giddy with the scenery.  There's truly nothing like being above treeline.  The land glowed with the orange of the earliest sun and as I stopped and soaked in the warmth a chorus of coyotes began their morning song.  Their jabber echoed off the peaks and vibrated in the light, lilting, playful and erratic.  The wild language perked my ears and sent a shiver down my body, my attention demanded in the moment by their primal exaltations.  I gazed out toward the noise trying to spot them on the rocky slopes but I couldn't pick out their graceful forms.

The trail ascended steeply below Sadler Peak but soon leveled out and traversed to the pass.  There stood the metal National Park Service sign, welcoming me to Yosemite.  I enjoyed the vantage point, looking south from where I'd come and north and east and west into Yosemite at mountain after mountain unrelenting to the horizon.  Simply thrilling; the no-bullshit world right in your face.  If you go you will feel it too.

The valley of the Triple Peak Fork of the Merced lay below me to the northwest, carved generously into the Yosemite back country.  My route went down into the valley but up once more over the Clark Range via the final pass of my route at Red Peak.  The Clark Range is a perfect mountain chain, finely sculpted and colored with a rich palate.  I'd been up Mt. Clark twice and had wanted to reach Red Peak Pass for years as I became increasingly enthralled with the relatively untraveled and overlooked area of the national park.

The path was steep and rocky descending from Isberg Pass but soon enough grew gentle and rolled on to the intersection down in the valley where the Red Peak Pass trail diverged.  The section over the Clark Range was 12 miles long, the final unknown stretch to familiar terrain.   I forged on excitedly, ascending the grey and brown and red rock, over cobbled faces marbled with infinite other heavenly tones.  It was a fairly gradual climb with short steep sections between lake basins; Red Devil Lake, Edna Lake, and countless others scattered like precious stones over the landscape, reflecting in day and night.

I was only slightly concerned about time although I knew my slow pace wasn't boding well for catching the one and only bus to get back to my car that evening.  I was having too much fun though to be preoccupied with that "minor" detail, besides if I was going to miss the bus, I was going to miss the bus; worrying wasn't going to change that.

I hiked steadily until there was no more path upwards and I found myself in the sharp groove of Red Peak Pass itself, between toothy daggers of rock that spiked into the blue above.  The view west spilled out before me, a whole other world just a moment before hidden from my eyes; Merced Peak and Upper and Lower Ottoway Lakes, Merced Pass and the Buena Vista Crest, the lesser-traveled back country of southwest Yosemite.  The central valley was way out there and my house in Berkeley beyond it and the Pacific Ocean beyond everything, not that I could see all that.  I sat and enjoyed the gun sight perch, with the cloudless sky making strong contrast against the mountains.  I felt so lucky to see those ethereal lands and to experience that sort of freedom.

I had to keep moving, urged by the necessity of at least trying to get home for work the next day.  I felt annoyed by my materialism, by our material culture, by society and our self-perpetuating routine of endless work to afford possessions we think we can't live without.  I fully embrace and relish some of the comforts and conveniences of our modernity no doubt, but I try to keep perspective on their true worth and where they fall in the grand scheme.

I was surprised at how precipitous the trail was leaving the pass.  Basketball sized boulders atop loose sand and gravel made the footing unsure and reiterated that the trip was by no means a run.  I'd already accepted that though.  I made it down the steeps and descended past the shining lakes of Upper and Lower Ottoway to the intersection with the trail along Illilouette Creek.  I'd traveled the last long downhill section from there many times so I could really put on cruise control to the end.

My imminent tardiness was slow to sink in to my uncaring brain that was still lost in and buzzing off the freedom of the wilderness.  It was a perfect grade along Illilouette creek and my eyes and legs and mind settled into the endless motion.  I measured my progress against landmarks from past trips: certain pools or drops in the river, bends in the trail, or features of the massive granite cliffs above.  The dome summit of Mt. Starr King and the other towering pieces of polished stone guided me like beacons, all distinct like classic art.  The familiar jigsaw shapes of the Clark Range, Gray Peak, Mt. Clark, and Quartzite Peak, accompanied me on my right as I went.  I looked upon their craggy features and remembered thrilling adventures with good friends.  I recalled storms, driving snow and blistering sun, sleep deprivation, heat exhaustion, fatigue, building shelters out of downed limbs, climbing perfect rock with vast air beneath, feeling the textures, relishing the dizzying positions.  I remembered grinning and laughing, balancing on spiny ridge tops, taking pictures on the summits of a timeless playground.

I hit the final little uphill near Panorama Point, across from Illilouette Ridge and Glacier Point, before the steep descent to Happy Isles.  When I reached the John Muir Trail near Nevada Falls I struck up a conversation with a guy from Montana.  He told me about his day running and hiking, away from his wife and daughter who were off on a hike of their own, so I told him about my past two days.  He was thrilled for me and excited to hear about my journey.  I finally felt like running (it's easier to pass all the crowds that way anyhow) and the Montanan was game so we started down the last ~3-4 miles together, gradually increasing the pace until we were nearly sprinting, flying by countless others the entire way.  I never expected to reach the end at such a clip.  It felt great to finish with a strong heart-pumping effort, breathing hard until the final steps.  The human interaction and connection was a nice too after two full days of almost complete solitude.  His wife and daughter were waiting by the bus and he was happy to tell them of my hike and our run down together.  They were sweet and congratulatory and we chatted on the free shuttle as we rode into the summer evening.  Even with the speedy finish I was too late for the bus, so I had some figuring to do.

The foremost task on the agenda though was to stop at the convenient store by the Yosemite Lodge for ice cream and beer, "It's-Its" and IPAs to be exact.  I sat on a bench outside the Mountain Room Bar and gleefully indulged and began thinking about what to do.  I was down in the Yosemite Valley, my car was up in Tuolumne Meadows and there were no more buses going there that night.  The first one the next morning wasn't until 8 or 9.  Unless I could manage to hitchhike to Tuolumne to get my car and drive back to the Bay, I simply couldn't make it to work the next morning.  Shit, yet another missed day at the job...sorry!  My phone was dead but somehow had just enough juice to turn on and for me to type and send the simplest, shortest text message to my boss before shutting off again (something like: STUCK IN YOSEMITE, CANT MAKE IT TOMORROW, BACK TUES.)  I was able to talk to my girlfriend and family on the pay phone because I knew their numbers by heart.

I sat and people watched and drank beer and ate ice cream and microwave burritos.  People passed through the central space to or from hotel rooms or restaurants and all the while gigantic cliffs stood above the commotion like temples, vibrant and ever-looming.  Countless adventures that had formed me had transpired between and upon those towering rocks and so many unique and influential characters had colored those experiences too.  The memories drifted through my head like slow moving mist in the early mornings while a Ranger gave a talk to a small audience nearby. I thought of jumping off stone bridges into frigid water, swimming in the Merced River in the woozy heat, rappelling down thousand foot faces, climbing the boulders, lounging around campfires and cookstoves in Camp 4, drinking water, coffee, whiskey and beer, making food, plans, and music.  I thought of nights spent on the sides of the big cliffs, some planned, some not.  I recalled spending 3 days on Half Dome at age 16 and the horror of seeing the sheath of the rope cut as my partner swung across the rock face below our anchor, 2,000 ft. off the ground.  I remembered my 21st birthday, sitting on the tailgate of a friend's pickup sipping scotch while a large bear walked silently before us, just feet away in the ghostly glow of the full moon.

My post-hike beer craving had sent me 6 deep and I was ready for bed.  I stumbled over to Camp 4 and spread my sleeping bag out in the dirt.  My set up was minimal and I knew to be up early to avoid issues with park rangers unapproving of my guerilla style.  I gazed up at the sky and let my eyes scan the heavens and my body and worn legs relax into the warmth of the bag.  I smiled in the darkness, thankful for one more night under the stars, pleased with my route over the Sierras.

On the bus ride to Tuolumne Meadows the next morning I looked out at shimmering Tenaya Lake and the graceful sweep of Tenaya Peak and at the fractured and polished rocks and emerald forest.  I tried to soak up all I could of the glow of the high country and tried to store up some of the peaceful feeling to bring back to the city.  The bus neared my stop and I felt the familiar disappointment of an adventure coming to a close.  I shut my eyes and pictured the scenes I'd witnessed, trying to prolong it.  I thought of the blonde black bear ambling through the meadow and the coyotes bantering at sunrise and wished to remain among them, a part of the cycle too.  But as I got in my car I knew it wasn't possible, I had responsibilities and obligations in another world.  I consoled myself as I drove though, knowing I'd be back again soon, making another trip home.





Thanks for reading!

...and another music video for your enjoyment!








Saturday, December 3, 2011

Evolving with an Open Heart and an Open Mind...


        Thoughts on a Monoculture vs. Permaculture Existence:


Monoculture in America



        Monoculture is the agricultural practice of producing or growing a single crop over a wide area; the mode of modern agri-business.  Permaculture, in opposition, is a more holistic approach to agriculture based on bio-diversity and modeled on the symbiotic relationships of different species found in nature.  Even a brief look at modern farming illuminates the pitfalls of monoculture in spades.  Monoculture farms have limited, less multi-faceted arsenals of immunity, so they are uniquely susceptible to a host of ills that biologically diverse, permaculture systems are not.  This is why big monoculture farms need all the herbicides and pesticides and other chemicals, that, in turn, adversely effect the land and the water and the workers.   The sheer size of these farms too, is a major reason why they are not sustainable; the bigger the land, the more machinery needed to work it; more impact on the land, on the environment in general, on resources, on the farmer her/himself.   Permaculture's essence is being appropriately-sized, working with Nature.  The results of this method are unavoidably sustainable, giving more to the land, to the animals that rely on the land (us included!), enriching it, rather than taking from it.    


Permaculture in America



  It is clear which style of farming is preferable and will actually survive the test of time and truly provide for humans and other animals, as well as the land which sustains all.*  These opposing methods, these two different approaches, can be applied to life beyond farming.  This is what I want to talk about: A monoculture existence versus a permaculture existence.  For optimal mental, emotional, and physical health people must choose their jobs, orient their professional and personal lives, align their hearts and their minds to the wisdom of permaculture, and, in doing so, give themselves to an eternal open-mind, to a life of diversity.  In terms of athletics and physicality too, following the permacultural-minded path will be more sustainable, supporting longevity of health and physical ability.   
        *-(I acknowledge that I am vastly simplifying the huge and complex issue of food/world hunger, etc...because it's simply too large an issue to grapple with here and besides, that's not specifically what I wish to address.)

  In a profession setting and generally in life, monotony (hmmm...sounds like monoculture) doesn't breed contentment.  Sitting at a desk all day, staring at a computer, making the same small motions and movements over and over again, is not sustainable, not optimal for employee, or employer.  Even at a great and stimulating desk job, (of which, needless to say, there are many) the physical stresses of those postures have been proven to cause all sorts of harm.  Most people know the frustrations, and repercussions in the rest of life, of having monoculture jobs/desk jobs (think Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, bad posture, back problems, sore eyes, trouble sleeping, stress, disconnection with nature, potential disconnection with family.)  So cultivate a permaculture job!  Doing what you love or something you are passionate about will instantly provide a more engaging work environment and if you're engaged and happy with your work, the results will be better, and everyone involved will benefit, especially you.  

  Multi-task, be multi-faceted; move around, and work with your hands sometimes.  Monotony of task is mentally draining, reducing our brain functions to repeating only a few well-trod pathways, so diversifying thought and motion is therefore improving the ability of our brains, allowing us to use more of it.  Specialization is good, often necessary, and appropriate in moderation, but switching things up, breaking out of the patterns as often as possible, is key to wellness.  






  So it is too with athletics and movement and general physical ability.  Specialization here too is necessary (especially at the "elite" levels) and appropriate in moderation, but more important is being well-rounded, an able-bodied and all-around athlete, of sport and life.  Over specialization and the ways our muscles develop accordingly, creates clear deficiencies in others areas, often leads to serious imbalances, some muscles over-developed, while others are sorely under.  But you must train with narrowed intent, with a specialized focus, to get to the highest levels of a given sport or activity!  This, as I said, is very much so, although it questions the wisdom of doing one thing, all the time, often to the exclusion of nearly all else (no time to read, to write, to cook, to watch movies, to be attend political protests, to be a part of your local community, to be with your lover/your friend/your family, to indulge, to read the paper and eat pastries and drink black coffee at a buzzing little cafe.)

  Being an all-around athlete of life increases your chances for physical contentment, for health, for survival; it develops your ability to adapt to whatever may come, to whatever twist or turn that life demands, whether that is running 100 miles, dancing in the club, busting a kick flip down a 5-stair, or throwing a ball to your granddaughter, or all of the above. 







  So cross-train, and be a cross-trainer of life!  Do what you love the most, the most often, but do other stuff too.  Remember that there's joy and beauty and pure, meditative focus available in all pursuits, in all conscious action, whether it's reading a book or painting a picture, making music or listening to a friend, running in the mountains or playing soccer, or basketball in the park, cooking a meal and sitting down and enjoying it.  

  Break the shackles of the monoculture world and live free, evolving with an open heart and an open mind...   
(drag queen!)


Lots of love and thanks for reading...have fun out there!



Here's a wonderful music video to a great song, check it out...









Monday, August 8, 2011

Returning to the Womb: Mishap on Moffett Creek




I have many topics that I've been meaning to write about (and haven't been) but a little over a month ago I had an experience that demanded to be written down before anything else.  It was slow going though, figuring out how to write it, how to lay it out and get it down, sorting through the thoughts and emotions of it.  There's a lot to be said about what happened; I just did the best I could for many complicated topics were at hand.  As you can derive from the title and my tone, this adventure was more of a misadventure.   I felt badly for the mistakes I made but positive elements existed too; strong and necessary lessons of the wilderness were learned and relearned, mental tenacity endured under harsh scrutiny, hard earned skills were put to good use, trust and faith, respect and friendship developed.


What Happened

Aj, a new co-worker and friend, came over on Sunday at about 8:30 in the morning and we drank stumptown and looked at the map of the Columbia Gorge, trying to decide where to go.  We'd been out on a few ~8 mile runs in Forest Park and he'd proved to be in good shape and down for the trails.  I suggested we do something longer somewhere, have a real adventure in the mountains.  Since Aj was just getting used to longer runs though and building up mileage I was having trouble figuring out what to take him on; I wanted something quite challenging but not too long, 15-20 miles would do.  We could take our time and hike as much as needed and since he was a fit guy and long time bad-ass soccer player I figured that that distance wasn't too crazy for him.  We hadn't yet decided the route when we packed up and left, so we didn't tell my girlfriend Sonya exactly where we were going, only "the Gorge."  I wanted to be back to watch Game 6 of the NBA Finals and drink beer by 6, at latest, and Aj had places to be by 5.  I'd been eyeing the Nesmith Point trail on the map, a sweet looking, steep and switchbacking ascent up almost four thousand feet in 4 miles.  As we drove along east on 84, I managed to pick out Nesmith Point and the valley that the trail ascended.  It looked sweet, perfect.  

"Ok, exit here, exit here!" I blurted out excitedly.  Game for anything, Aj turned off as instructed at exit 40, for the Bonneville Dam.  A quick right and we parked on the side of the car lined road by the trail for Wahclella Falls.  I had the plan in my head, the clear and seemingly simple route.  Leave the car and run west along the Gorge trail (a cool trail although the highway noise sort of kills the vibe).  From the Gorge trail, we would turn left and make the big ascent up nearly to the top of Nesmith.  After hitting the fire road near the top we'd turn left again and head south along the old dirt road a short distance to the Moffett Creek trail.  Then across the big and rolling, high and forested shelf below and between Mount Talapus and Palmer Peak we would go, crossing the head of Moffett Creek itself.  Then all down from there, dropping off the east edge of the shelf and descending steeply into the valley of Tanner Creek.  The trail would turn into dirt road and we'd follow that out to the mouth of the valley by the Columbia, and our car there; a simple loop.  The map I was using, the National Geographic Trails Illustrated one, didn't have specific point to point mileages but that loop appeared to be just what we wanted at 15-20 miles.  If we left the trailhead by 11 am then we'd have at least 5 hours to cover that ground; plenty of time.  

Well, we definitely could have done it.

Since we intended to be mostly running, we went with minimal equipment.  We each had a single handheld water bottle (I choose to drink the stream water in the area and do it all the time in the mountains (if it seems to come from a non human/agriculture/industry-tainted source), call me crazy.  Aj chose on this trip to do so too.  We went out with only one bottle with the knowledge that we'd have a multitude of opportunities to refill.)  I brought maybe 7 gels for the both of us and a few other random energy food/gel-type things.  We both wore running shoes, shorts, and basic, long sleeve synthetic tops.  I had a synthetic short sleeve shirt as well.  Going so minimally for 20 miles in the mountains may seem like insanity to a lot of people but when you do it often, going 20, 30, 40+ miles without a hitch you can forget that minimalism can have its consequences.  The forecast was good when I checked a few days before and people said the rain had finally stopped so it seemed like it'd be pretty casual...

I'd been exploring the Gorge trails fairly frequently, running and hiking more and more of them, feeling confident and like I was getting to know the terrain, getting a sense of the larger area in my head, connecting the peaks and the valleys and ridges in between.  It was feeling like my backyard, so close, nice well-defined trails...

We set off from the car at 11 am, as planned.  I never bring my cell phone and it must have not occurred to Aj either.  Who can get service in the mountains?  Besides, I hate technology (what the hell do you think I'm running from anyway?!?!) and don't tell me we're not all getting brain tumors from our phones. 

We lamented the noise of the cars and trucks on 84 as we rolled along the Gorge trail, west.  After a few miles we came to a junction busy with passing groups of hikers.  I misread the sign and we took the wrong trail a half mile out of our way to Elowah Falls via a dramatic trail literally blasted into the cliff face, complete with hand rail.  A nice and scenic detour although I pride myself on my directional and navigational capabilities so I felt a little bit off my game; I should have known it was not my day.  We headed back down from Elowah and got back on the right trail.  Just a minute further on we hit the junction with the Nesmith Point trail.  The big climb began.  The trail switchbacked incessantly up the lush, green drainage below Nesmith.  We mostly hiked the very steep ~4.5 miles to the intersection with the fire road on the shoulder below the point.  

About halfway up we came upon a deer and her two beautiful fawns.  They were on the trail ahead of us and continued up the incline, ascending effortlessly.  We spoke kindly and the mother calmly pulled off to let us pass but the little ones didn't follow the cue and forged on, a bit frightened.  We stopped and tried to show our good intentions and coerce them back toward mom but they went on, and so we hiked on too.  Finally they headed off the trail with small sounds of distress, moving over the land with their astonishingly nimble and light step.  We apologized for the scare and wished them well.

The trail ascended out of the drainage, climbing less steeply at last to the fire road.  We went left, passed a group of hikers coming off Nesmith Point who were going to head west down Horsetail Creek trail.  We continued past that turnoff a ways to the Moffett Creek trail.  We were feeling good, had been keeping along at a good pace.  The climb was over, it was early, and now all we had to do was cruise along over the high shelf, the headwaters of Moffett Creek, and then drop down into Tanner Creek and back to the car.  We were a little less than half way, feeling great. 

It was evident from the first step on it that the Moffett Creek trail was different.  As in, less used, way less used.  It was still easy to follow, just far fainter and less defined than all the Gorge trails I'd been on up to that point.  We ran easily on the fun rolling terrain through the trees and I was happy to see almost no snow up there at 3,000+ ft.  We crossed a creek and filled our bottles and ate, still feeling good, on track.  It was maybe 2:30 or 3 o,clock.  Onwards from there to snow.  It came by surprise as we neared a much bigger creek, the headwaters of McCord Creek, I believe.  It was north facing and the shape of the little valley kept it shadowed and protected, and the drifts were deep although thankfully it was hard and our steps didn't break through.  I was able to piece together distant bits of bare ground and stay on the trail to the creek's edge, but it was impossible to determine where it went on the other side, there was just too much snow and definitely no tracks.  I crossed the narrow flow and headed up the snow on the opposite bank.  I figured that since the trail was heading east we should continue to head easterly.  I proposed that we ascend the next little rise and see if we hit it.  We both moved along scanning the woods and soon, after just a few minutes, we hit a trail.  A trail, but unfortunately, little did we know, not the trail.  I hadn't brought the map along since I'd studied the route a good deal and there were no trails shown on my map that branched off of Moffett Creek trail.  The trail we hit was descending slightly to the northeast and since our intended route was descending to the east as well, and since I believed it to be the one and only trail in the area, we followed it.  

The trail wove its way out to where the land began to form a ridge line.  It was quite stunning as the narrow path, not much more than a game trail, danced along spiny sections with huge views in both directions.   I should have known that the Moffett Creek trail didn't traverse any terrain like that but I'd been duped into blind faith and fully consumed.  I'd fallen prey and my guard had been broken down.  

We crossed some open rocky sections following cairns and finally arrived at a more prominent craggy perch, with great vantage to the mountains and gorge before it.  The trail appeared to terminate here, right at the edge of a valley, dropping off steeply, downwards from that point.  I wrongly believed that this valley was Tanner Creek, and that the trail went down from there, as I'd seen on the map, but we just couldn't find it.  We searched around for awhile and couldn't find anything.  It was around 4.  Again, I thought that if we headed down the slope we might intersect one of the switchbacks of the trail and, anyway, if we didn't hit it, we could just plan on finding it in the bottom of the valley along Tanner Creek where it was guaranteed to be.  That errant assumption was the major error of the experience; hope, over-confidence, and that damn blind faith egged me on and I took the bait when we should have accepted defeat and turned around right there.  It was just so far to retreat when we were so near the end, and we still thought we were generally heading correctly and had been on the right trail all along.  



So down we went, into the lonely and dark valley, the steep and shrouded clutches of Moffett Creek itself.  At some point in this rocky, mossy, wet descent it began to dawn on me a bit that this maybe wasn't the best idea.  What if the terrain cliffs out before we ever reach the river?  I figured we would wait and see and went on.  The land did get steeper and steeper as we neared the bottom of our ~1,750 ft. drop and I soon found myself down-climbing the final 20 ft. to the river, a near vertical wall of moss, running with water.  I stood on the edge of the creek, or really in it, as Aj approached from above, and surveyed the scene.  

I immediately realized the flaws in my decision making.  The little canyon was sheered walled on the other side, and narrow, and there was no trail in sight or even space for a trail.  It was like we were going canyoneering.  WTF!?  This was one of those times where things have gotten pretty bad before accepting defeat you try desperately to fix it and end up making it even worse.  Aj made it down and of course we figured we might as well walk down stream a bit to see what we could see, maybe we could work our way down, we reasoned, until we could exit the valley at the bottom, near Wahclella Falls and the car.  I thought it might not be that far away.  We headed down stream, wading through the ice cold water at times, balancing on the treacherous rocks underfoot, getting wet.  After just a few hundred yards the nightmare worsened as we hit a waterfall, a 40-50 ft. drop off.  Dead end.  Maybe, we reasoned further with a stubborn and desperate motivation homeward, we could just bypass the waterfall by climbing up the slope above the creek, traversing over, and then descending to the water once again down stream of the drop.  We accomplished this, by moving up and across on wet, mossy, rugged slopes of forest life, sometimes using our hands on the humus, on that stunningly rich mix of things decaying and things growing.  Once back to the river we forged on, wanting so badly for this plan to somehow work.  The time was getting on.  We didn't want to face the impending truth.  

Another waterfall.  Another attempt to move up and over and around it.  Devil's Club everywhere, a freakishly thorny and aptly named bit of flora, pricking and slashing my bare legs and arms as I bushwhacked through the mess.  I was worried, starting to get that sick feeling in my stomach and mind, like a bomb ticking away with every moment, every wrong turn and dead end, every maddening, torturous struggle through the brush, every stumble on the rocks and slip into the river.  The slope we were traversing was becoming too steep, too dangerous to attempt and, rounding a little bend, I saw the worst case scenario.  Cliffed out.  Dead end.  We tried to go up and around but as we ascended we hit more cliffs above.  Dead end.  One final idea, to follow a steep little gully straight down to the river, proved fruitless.  Another drop off.  Sheer.  Overhanging even.  Dead end.

That's when it became blaringly and unavoidably clear that the jig was up.  We couldn't go forward, in any direction from where we were; we could only go back.  We checked the time.  7 o,clock.  It would be dark in an hour and a half.  That initial nagging worry back home had already begun but I couldn't ponder it, couldn't let it break me down, I had more important issues to deal with, like keeping our shit together, mentally and physically, and not dying out there.  I had someone else's life on my hands, on my conscience, too and I knew it was game time.  There was only one choice; we would have to backtrack, retrace every step back up that long mountainside and over to where we initially lost the trail and back down to safety.  But since we didn't have headlamps we simply couldn't do it safely until the next morning (I felt it to be the wiser choice to be conservative and take the time to build an effective shelter than to push it until the point of darkness and then try to do that) and so, therefore, we had to spend the night.  When we realized this fact there was little to say.  I told Aj that we would be ok, that I'd been stuck out before, and that the most important thing was to remain calm and not freak out.  We worked back upstream, toward where we'd entered the valley from above, looking for a place to call home for the night and to take advantage of what light we did have and shorten our trip in the morning.  A small, flat(ish) little area presented itself, on the steep slope of moss and ferns and lush green forest above that initial big waterfall we'd come to.  

Ahhhh...a night in the woods, stuck out, unplanned, unprepared...you got to love it.  As I said it had happened to me before.  The first time it almost happened (we did get back to the car well past dark with no lights) was with my mom on a climbing trip in southern Illinois in eighth grade.  A friend and major supporter of my adventures, my mom belayed me selflessly as I climbed the sandstone bluffs all day and our chocolate lab Babe slept at the base of the cliff in the sun of sniffed around with a deep nose.  Later, after we couldn't find the trail out and the rough terrain demanded we backtrack, we worked our way together through the dark woods, helping Babe along as we scrambled through boulders and blankets of fallen leaves to the car.  Then there was the time a few years later, maybe sophomore year of high school, on Middle Cathedral Rock in Yosemite, huddled on a tiny ledge a thousand feet up with a New Zealander, shorts and t-shirts, no headlamps, food, water, nothing.  Other times: I'd huddled in a ditch, highway side, during college, after attempts at hitchhiking hadn't panned out.  Old friends, new friends, strangers even, shouldn't afraid to spoon when need be; of this, now, I am a firm believer.  

The dark and lonely valley, the Moffett Creek Drainage.  We entered it from the righthand skyline,
descending the steep, shadowed face, in front of the righthand ridge line that drops into the upper valley.
We spent the night at the bottom of the valley, right in the middle of that mess.


The most essential element to a night out in the woods thought is faith and trust in nature.  It's the ultimate "tough-love" to be sure, but it is just that.  A night in a mossy lean-to may not be comfortable by normal standards but nature can provide for us, can cradle us, can sustain us.  But first you have to give it your faith, your love, your calm surrender.  Embrace it even when it wears it toughest face, displays its harshest moods.  

We stood and surveyed the tiny plot in the shadowed woods of the Columbia Gorge.  A long and slender trunk was already downed on the site, laying horizontal to the ground.  I grabbed it, pulled it up a bit and propped it on limb from a nearby tree; voila, the central beam to our earthen A-frame.  We then moved about the area collecting pieces of wood, limbs and boughs, the long sections littering the ground.  These we leaned up and propped against the beam from either side (creating an "A" shaped shelter.)  Large carpet-like sections of moss, ferns, pine boughs, and anything else we could grab were placed atop this frame to provide the actual roofing.  We took the necessary time gathering materials and filling in the patchy roof, getting warm in the process.  It was still light when we'd finished but there was nothing to do but get inside and begin the miserable but essential process of suffering.  We crawled in and it was a very tight fit indeed, but that was probably for the best in terms of warmth.  

I thought of my girlfriend and her sister worrying, waiting for me to return , to meet them out and watch the Finals and have a good time.  I knew it would be hell for them, the stress and uncertainty and worst-case thoughts, but I had to try to push it out of my mind or else I'd lose it and start crying.  I'd been in a few such situations before and I knew I just couldn't dwell on that; I had to focus on surviving and keeping this two person team safe and sane.  As we accepted the fact that we had to spend the night, all I could say to Aj was: "Just don't panic, we're going to be fine.  This sucks...bad...but we're going to be ok."  He nodded in understanding and never waivered in his faith and perserverence.   

We climbed into the shelter at 8 pm.  Shortly after, as if to make the situation as arduous and dangerous as possible, the valley filled with dense, cold fog and it began to rain and continued to do so until we climbed out at 6:30 am.  All night we shifted and spooned, and shivered, and shuddered, tried to stretch our aching, cramped limbs, spooning, turning, and shivering more, in and out and in and out of consciousness, arms inside our shirts, knees to our chests, two wilderness travelers in fetal position, side by side, raw to the earth, in the dirt, enmeshed in pure elements, in complete and utter submission to mother earth.  I had set the alarm on my watch for 5 but when it went off in the dark and it was still raining we decided it was worth it to wait a little and see if the rain let up with the coming light.  Of course it didn't let up, so we figured we just had to go for it, rain or not.  The shelter, while cramped and uncomfortable, was surprisingly waterproof.  We were a little wet and clammy to be sure but not soaked after 10 hours of sleeping in a mossy shelter in the rain...pretty good.

All night, when I was conscious, I thought about what it would take to get us back safely.  The route back, although tough and tiring, was known.  It was the wet and the cold that could kill us and our only safety was in constant motion.  I knew that when we climbed out of that shelter into the wet, foggy, mountainous world we couldn't stop until we'd made it back.  Another wrong turn, inactivity once we were fully wet, could mean death.  I knew this.  I knew we weren't going to stop until the end.  We crawled stiffly out into the light, stood up, blinking into the relative bright, looking around at our surroundings, and began moving forward.  We were on our way...

I felt clumsy and uncoordinated as I tried to wake up while slipping and tripping down the creek from our shelter.  We still had to go up river a bit to where we'd dropped in and I stumbled and almost totally fell in, partially soaking myself.  The ice water filling our shoes once again probably helped to snap us to life a bit.  I lead, as I did all day, and Aj followed behind, silently enduring, engaged in his own struggle and mental games, although the team was strong together.   We reached the point where we'd descended into the whole mess and I began the process of getting fully soaked by climbing the mandatory moss wall, about 20 ft. of thick emerald moss over near vertical rock, all pouring down with cold water.  It was miserable of course, uncomfortable to the utmost, and the journey ahead was daunting but there was no thinking now, only survival mode, nothing but action.  We ascended through the trees, trying to pick the right course upwards, scared now of somehow losing our way again.  1,750 ft. back up the steep fern and moss slopes, through enshrouded boulders and short cliffs, arguing here and there about the right direction of ascent to where we wanted to go.  I tried to be as accomodating as possible and not be too insistent or forceful on my position, although I felt I was doing a fine job of steering us back.  I knew he was scared and had already done so amazingly in enduring the challenges we'd faced, I wanted to support and comfort him as best I could.  

To our relief the trees finally cleared and we reached the top of the valley right at the rocky area where the trail we were following the day before had terminated.  It was a welcome sight and a relief to have completed one of the hardest parts of getting back to warmth and security.  The elation was short lived though for the high top of the valley and the semi-exposed ridge line that the trail follows for a ways was being whipped by a strong and cold wind and the rain had intensified accordingly.  Of course, we were already completely soaked through from the climb up and then the temperature dropping and the wind really made things dire.  I put my arms inside my shirt and cupped my hands around my mouth to catch the warmth of my breath.  I hiked like this for 4 miles or so, shivering and sluggish, uncoordinated and numb, until the wind died down and I warmed sufficiently.  Aj marched along behind all the while, never complaining, beyond words.  We were both scared and focused, zen like, driven by the instinctual motions of survival; there was little talking, only forward motion.  We actually found the junction (with the "mystery" trail that we hadn't known even existed) we'd missed before, where we'd first gotten off, although it wasn't much, still snow covered with a small sign broken and laying flat.  We crossed the snowy area that had foiled us and picked up the trail on the other side and continued our backtrack to safety, seeing then, as with most things in retrospect, how we'd been tripped up and turned around.  Hiking on over the rolling terrain, we finally reached the dirt road up to Nesmith with excitement.  Done with the Moffett Creek trail.  

Down the big climb up from the day before, we ran for a bit and warmed up but our beaten bodies were quickly happy to settle again into our previous slow and constant march.  Near the bottom, near highway 84, we passed a hiker and told him what had happened and that we were trying to find a ride the few miles east to our car.  He was headed up but told us that he had just passed someone farther down who might be able to help.  On we went and finally reached the guy farther down, told him the story, and he gladly agreed to drive us the short distance.  He offered us granola bars and we were happy to accept them and indulge instantly.  The first food in maybe 19 hours.  We got in his car once we reached the road, apologizing for our glorious, earthen scents and filthy, dirt-caked bodies; he had us sit on towels.  We chatted on the short drive and soon he dropped us at Aj's truck.  We thanked him profusely and waved as he drove away.  There was a note on the windshield but no one and nothing else around.  It read: "Call 911," so we knew something was up.  Then we got in his car and realized our wallets and cell phones had been taken, although the doors were locked and the windows weren't broken.  Right then, as we stood slightly bewildered, an SUV pulled up and a blond haired woman stuck her head out of the window.

"Are you guys the lost trail runners?" She asked excitedly.  Aj and I looked at each other.

"I guess so, yes."  She motioned to the driver and they pulled over immediately and jumped out.  The guy had a news camera and she a microphone.  Oh no!  Not the local news!

They questioned us and we answered light-heartedly, not knowing the full extent of what had happened/was happening.  Only after minutes of questioning did she tell us that not even a mile up the road a major search and rescue operation for us was based and that people had been out looking for us all night.  OMFG!!! What?!?!  We felt terrible, of course.  After borrowing the news lady's phone to try and make contact with my girlfriend and my family, Aj and I hopped in his truck and drove up to the center of the search and rescue (SAR) operation.  We got out and timidly began waving in acknowledgment to the people on the scene as it became obvious that we, haggard and dirty, were in fact the two they were looking for.  We were ushered into the "mobile command center," a massive RV-like vehicle, to talk to the guys in charge of it all and to explain what had happened and where exactly we'd been.  They were excited to know.  Our wallets and cell phones were there with them, they'd opened Aj's truck and gotten them to identify us with.  My map, that I should have had with me, was there too.  I showed them exactly where we'd been, where we'd slept, where we'd gone wrong.  They seemed impressed actually and were extremely nice to us, wide eyed as we told of spooning the rainy night away in our moss and fern covered lean-to.  They even handed us a huge bag of McDonalds and told us to grab a burger.  I hadn't eaten McDonald's in probably a decade or more but I took one so I wouldn't seem ungrateful (I ate it in the car for the hell of it and, damn, it's like candy, there's nothing to it, so bad in so many ways, so fleetingly and sickeningly delightful.)  I was truly humbled and deeply sorry, and we thanked them and everyone around over and over and apologized for our errors and in creating such a spectacle and worrying so many people.  More reporters and their cameras tried to interview us as we left the command center but we'd had enough of that so we declined them and got into his truck and drove off. 

On the highway, 84 west and we were finally headed home at last, shell-shocked and hungry, among other things.

Other Thoughts on the Experience

This incident was quite intense, needless to say, and left with me with a lot to think about.  I have a great deal of experience in the wilderness, climbing, running, backpacking, and boating, with a Wilderness First Responder medical certification (or two, since I decided to re-take it once it had expired, for a job leading teenagers in the wilderness), so of course I want to understand what I did wrong so as to learn from my mistakes.  Although there were things that I clearly did wrong, there were essential decisions that were made correctly; I will mention both. 

The main problem was not taking the map.  Duh, so to speak.  I had studied the route and it showed no trails branching off so I thought it would be impossible to take a wrong turn.  This assumption was clearly wrong and if I'd had the map I would have been checking it and would have realized that we were veering off in the wrong direction.  Simple.  Besides the map, some extra food and a headlamp would have been a minimal but solid additions.  If we'd had headlamps we would have backtracked and gotten out that night.  Given that we hadn't brought the map, the other big error was in forging on, hoping that my assumptions were correct.  It is easy to get like this when you think you are still navigating correctly, overly optimistic,  unwilling to accept defeat and just go back.  We must be humble in the wilderness!  No matter how experienced, how trained, how fit; sometimes you make honest mistakes and the art lies in realizing that sooner than later and dealing with it, as gracefully as possible.  I should have know better than to continue on when it began to look bleak but hope can really spur you on when you think salvation might be just around the next bend.

Another problem was not telling someone exactly where we were going.  (This may sound strange but given that we were still uninjured and functioning and able to self-rescue I am actually very, very thankful that the search and rescue didn't know exactly where we were; our position, where we spent the night, was so rugged and inaccessible that a rescue effort there would have been dangerous for others and hugely involved.)  Although I hate cell phones, that is one more component that many have been urging me to bring along (I guess even if it's turned off "they" can still locate you with a "ping."  Very creepy but for my loved ones I must swallow my pride and learn to take the good with the bad sometimes.)  I've been bringing it along, turned off, on every adventure run since.

There were some major criticisms of us that I would like to address (most of them written in the comment section of the videos of us on the local news sites.)  First off I want to say that I am so sorry for ever making anyone worry about me; I know this is no small thing and I don't desire recklessness.  When people say things, though, like: they must have no experience! who goes out to run 20 miles in the mountains? who would bring such little gear?  they should pay for the rescue efforts, I don't want my taxes going to save them! I can't help but feel that they are not considering some things.  Lots of people go and run 20-30-40-50+ miles in the mountains all the time, and that number is increasing rapidly.  I know it sounds crazy, and is in some ways, but it's entirely feasible too.  You can't run those distances in the same way if you have lots of gear with you.  Yes, you do up the risk a bit, but you also have the great advantage of being light and fast and if you're fit enough and choosing to be out there doing it in the wilderness then you must have at least a certain level of mountain aptitude and amount of self-reliance.  In terms of tax payers' money going towards rescue efforts like these, I would say first: of course, you don't want totally inexperienced people going out and being far too ambitious and getting in way over their heads and then relying on a costly rescue to survive, but there's a big difference in someone with a great deal of training and experience making an understandable error and then dealing with it and getting out safely without assistance.  The second thing I'd say to those concerned about tax payers' dollars is: Better you should be worried about how much of your hard earned cash is going toward wars or Wall Street bonuses or any of the other myriad sick and warped ways our government spends our money than about whether a few cents worth goes to finding someone who got turned around in the woods.  I am forever apologetic for having the rescue efforts made for me and Aj and I would choose self-rescue at almost any cost but come on, let's keep it in perspective here, I mean for real!

A note on local news: Don't trust it.  The seemingly simple plot of our misadventure was reported differently and never accurately by the handful of local news channels that covered the story.  Every question that was asked of us oozed sensationalism, they wanted to film me, up close, talking to my family on the phone.  No thanks.  The inaccuracy though was baffling and no wonder then how stereotypes form from one-sided, biased reporting, spreading fear and all the negativity and discrimination that results.  Just a quick aside.  

  Back on topic, I must say for all the mistakes made we did do some things right, things that saved our lives. Here they are:

-We stopped early. still in the light, to make a shelter.  We didn't forge on into the night and get wet and cold before trying to find/make a shelter without headlamps.  We accepted our fate, knew we couldn't get out safely with what we had that night, and knew we had to spend the night.  We took the time to create an effective shelter, our salvation from 8 pm to 6:30 am, and it very possibly was the difference in our survival.  

-We kept things together mentally.  This was truly the most important thing that happened.  It served as the basis for all other decision making.  Panic causes rash decisions to be made, like desperately hiking into the night without lights trying to get home, like building a half-assed shelter in the dark.  Things snowball, death occurs.  Calmness in the mind, acceptance of the situation, informs a relaxed body.  Better energy for survival.  

-Of course there's the super basics, like we weren't wearing cotton (a serious liability when wet), but that goes without saying.  

So, we made it.  That was that.  It was epic and moving, deeply affecting, and loved ones were worried and I felt bad, missing acutely all those I love, and remembered the essential, vital importance of those relationships and bonds.  The real important stuff took center stage, all the meaningless details of life that occupy us were dissolved away in a moment, in my life and in the lives of those connected to me.  But, as it is now in our modern times, in our modern lives, all that was gone in an instant.  Time flew by, marched on, rushed past.  The experience seemed more and more dreamlike as it receded into memory, as the scrapes healed and the lingering sense of the womb of the forest slowly faded from me.  Everything went back to normal, as to be expected, but it reminded me of how we're living now and how we are changing as humans beings, and the interrelation of the two.  Long reflection, contemplation and slow living is being systematically bred out of our society, of our culture (if you can even call it that anymore.)  Raw, real, animal-like experience in nature isn't valued; it can't be sold, can't be made big business.  Our society can't see the chance for true wisdom there, doesn't see the opportunity for the cultivation and exercising of real bravery and courage, or developing a unity with the last untouched, unfettered, untainted thing we know.  Don't get me wrong, please, I am forever and wholeheartedly apologetic for making anyone worried, for having rescue efforts mobilized, for every bit of that, but in terms of learning to trust, love, and respect nature, and to gain perspective on this world we live in, it might do people good to get turned around in the woods a little more often.  Get up close and personal with it!  A guaranteed adventure, a story to tell your kids!  Explore the brilliance of something untouched by man, crawl around in the woods, nuzzle your face in the dirt! 

(just tell someone where you're going and not to wait up!)


I want to give an extra special mention to my girlfriend Sonya, who took the brunt of the worrying, and also her sister Nina.  I am forever sorry for the bad night!!!  Also to my family: I know I've put you through some scary times over the years but I learn more every time and I swear I'm becoming more conservative.  Love you all!

Last, but clearly not least, to Aj.  An amazing guy, I am forever impressed at your tenacity and toughness in the experience.  Thanks for rocking it out and sorry again for the poor navigation.  I just hope one day you'll go on another run with me.

Thanks for reading!  Peace...





here's another video for your enjoyment.  Amazing talent! Rest in peace, Amy Winehouse.